When you itemise Tenerife’s attractions it ends up sounding like a fantasy island – the best aspects of other destinations cobbled together in one spot: a Herzog & de Meuron-designed art gallery, a high-energy street carnival, sun-soaked wineries and Garachico’s ethereal natural pools. But this isn’t some mash-up of London, Rio, Provence and the Dolomites we’re talking about, it’s Tenerife, which, without making a big fuss about it, has been quietly maturing into one of Europe’s most exciting destinations, with extraordinary experiences such as whale-watching, star-gazing in Teide National Park, and some of the world’s best hotels, restaurants and spas.
Having carried a reputation as the Canaries’ party island for some time – all beach bars, pink drinks and all-night discos – Tenerife is now ready to show off its elevated, more cultured side, along with its natural splendour and lesser-known villages.
The National Parks: otherworldly landscapes and wildlife
Away from the city, there are two stunning national parks. The first, Parque Nacional del Teide, sits slap bang in the middle of the island, and is dominated by El Teide, the most imposing of the Canaries’ many awesome volcanoes, which at 3,718 metres is Spain’s tallest peak. The park’s 190 square kilometres comprise one vast UNESCO World Heritage Site, and an extraordinary place to explore; bizarre rock formations rear up out of nowhere, strange desert flora clings to the hillsides and the whole landscape feels haunting and otherworldly. It’s a fair hike up to the mouth of the volcano – better to take the cable car for an unmatched perspective of the entire island and even follow one of Volcano Teide’s guides for an awesome session of sunsets and star-gazing (the lack of pollution reveals planets, galaxies and clusters in their full glory).
By contrast, Parque Rural de Anaga in the far north of the island is a lush, rugged paradise where stunning hiking trails cut through dense woodland and deep valleys carve astonishing views across ancient forests. A protected biosphere reserve, the park is home to an abundance of life including the island’s fabled dragon trees and a whole host of birds, among them shearwaters and owls. Up here you’ll also find some of Tenerife’s loveliest villages including Afur, a tiny whitewashed hamlet that sits prettily surrounded by hills. Other settlements in the north are similarly handsome, such as San Cristóbal de la Laguna, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and university town known as the ‘Florence of the Canary Islands’ for the many churches and brightly painted historical houses in its old centre. As the former capital of Tenerife, it's home to grande dames such as boutique La Laguna Gran Hotel, a bastion of traditional Canarian architecture and design with a genteel interior courtyard and rooftop pool.
Santa Cruz: culture and food
Tourists have long been drawn to the south of Tenerife with its resorts, beaches and booming nightlife, but the real hub of the island is its capital, Santa Cruz. Here you’ll find Herzog & de Meuron’s strikingly beautiful modern-art gallery, Tenerife Espacio de las Artes (TEA), which houses a permanent collection of work by local surrealist Oscar Domínguez and a roster of first-class touring exhibitions. Santa Cruz is also home to Santiago Calatrava’s Auditorio, a 1,600-seat opera house and design marvel which sits on the water’s edge recalling a vast white helmet of a punk-rock charioteer.
But it’s not all edification. There’s a brilliant complex of swimming pools and restaurants, Parque Marítimo, designed by artist César Manrique, which is a glorious place to while away a sunny afternoon. And, although on hold this year due to Covid-19, February usually brings a month-long riot of a carnival, second only in size and stature to Rio de Janeiro’s, which rollicks around the old town’s streets, a samba-induced spectacle of sparkly outfits and animated costumes and devil-may-care debauchery.
The city is also the best place for top-rung restaurants, showcasing a combination of Spanish and Latin American-influenced plates, and using sun-ripened vegetables, fruit and fish plucked fresh from the sea. For a whistle-stop tour of the island’s tasty bounty, peruse the stalls at Mercado Nuestra Señora de Africa, then head to Santa Cruz’s smartest haunts such as La Posada del Pez and San Sebastián 57 where chef Alberto González Margallo’s fish dishes (particularly the black cherne and tuna tartare) demand a try. Taking centre stage in Tenerife’s more low-key, traditional food scene is the island’s famous papas arrugadas, deeply flavoured potatoes grown in rich volcanic soil which are boiled in seawater and then roasted until their skins crinkle. Locals eat them with grilled sardines and lashing of mojo rojo sauce made from red pepper and garlic. These, along with other traditional Canarian dishes, are best enjoyed at Mesón Los Angeles, which serves papas arrugadas with choco (cuttlefish) and mojo sauce, or alfresco at Santa Cruz’s Restaurante Casa Comida La Hierbita, a legendary spot that's been open for more than a century and is known for its puchero canario (Canarian stew) and locally led wine cellar.
Indeed, the real surprise is the quality of the island’s wine. The vines planted here by Spanish settlers some 500 years ago survived the devastating root louse epidemic which killed 90 per cent of European vines in the 19th century, leaving Tenerife with a host of grape varieties that you can’t find anywhere else. Make sure you try the heroic red Listán Negro (family-owned vineyard Tajinaste in the Valle de la Orotava produces a particularly good one, as does Bodegas Monje with its 500-year old vines creating an intense, volcanic character), and round off lunch or supper with a glass of sweet and aromatic Malvasía wine (try Brumas de Ayosa Malvasía Dulce).
The coastline: craggy walks, wild beaches and boat trips
And of course there is Tenerife’s glorious coastline. The big hotels are clustered around family-friendly strips of white sand, but the real draw here are the island’s wilder spots. At Los Gigantes on the west coast, the black cliffs surge from the water, creating scenery worthy of Game of Thrones. Sunset boat trips are the best way to appreciate the 600-metre-high cliffs and there is a saltwater lido at the base which gets bashed thrillingly by waves as you swim in its calm waters. For an alternative beach experience, try the wild black sands at Playa del Bollullo, near Puerto de la Cruz. Accessible only via footpath, the beach tends to be quiet, allowing you to explore its untamed beauty away from the crowds. For a breathtaking coastal walk, go to Almaciga up north in the Anaga national park where the path is cut into the rocks and the green cliffs tumble down to the water’s edge. And with 21 of the world’s 79 species of dolphin and whale circling the south of the island (at Puerto Colón and Los Gigantes) all year round, a whale-watching adventure is almost obligatory – there’s no better (or more sustainable) way to do it than aboard a catamaran followed by sundowners.
For a truly authentic Canarian experience, start in the charming little town of Garachico on the north coast. Once the island’s commercial hub, it was decimated by floods and then half-submerged in volcanic lava in 1706. Today, it’s a magical place of artisanal shops, rustic tapas joints and pretty coves that make for great sea swimming spots. Stay at historic boutique hotel San Roque (a sympathetically restored 18th-century Canarian manor house), or equally as splendid Hotel la Quinta Roja, a pastel-pink 17th-century mansion with a vast palm-filled courtyard and photogenic watchtower.
Brilliantly, all this is available all year round – we especially love Tenerife in September, after the summer rush and before the high winter season gets going, when the place is roomier and languidly lovely.
Gorgeous weather, thrillingly modern culture, spectacular beaches and unexpectedly stunning countryside – perhaps Tenerife is a fantasy island after all.
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