Homogeneity has never been a way of life in India. Our existence and world view have been shaped by multiple religious, social, political and cultural influences that, for the most part, have co-existed symbiotically. However, the one aspect in which we've so far nurtured a blinkered point of view is when it comes to our norms of beauty. Female (and even male) beauty has been herded into a narrow alley with not much room to manoeuvre, despite the genetic diversity modern India has inherited.
From a historical context, this makes perfect sense. India has seen huge influxes and movements of populations over centuries—invading forces left their own mark on art and culture and shaped world views according to their mores. Since beauty ideals are influenced by the more prestigious or dominant culture, it's no surprise that in ancient India, the fair skin of the Aryans, and later that of Europeans, was seen as superior, and has endured as the prototype we aspire to even in modern times.
Even in today's more globalised world, we often look Westward to reinforce our definitions and ideals of beauty. The popularity of the Kardashian empire proves we're very susceptible to Western suggestions of what is beautiful. We end up reinforcing our belief of a Eurocentric ideal, and ironically, a centuries-old cycle keeps perpetuating itself.
World over, the frame of reference for beauty is now widening to include a variety of women of colour. And we're seeing a corresponding movement in India, in the women we choose to represent us as our beauty icons. In recent times, model Radhika Nair, with her urbane, androgynous appeal, has been on the cover of British Vogue and our own September issue, and we can't get enough of Naga model Ketholeno Kense (a Vogue India Women Of The Year Young Achiever winner for 2017). In this story, Toshada Uma demonstrates that androgyny and a fluctuating hairline can be sexy, the Dweltz twins are proof that a few tweaks in DNA high up in the family tree can have surprising results generations later, and Sonali Singh isn't going to let something as trivial as a scar stop her. Meanwhile, Renee Kujur is the new poster-child for the diversity of the Indian gene pool, because she's a dead ringer for Barbadian superstar Rihanna.
It's a generation of confident young Indian women who are sparking these conversations and helping our beauty ideals widen and evolve by agitating that unchanged idea of feminine beauty: fair skin, almond-shaped eyes, long, straight black hair and a curvaceous figure. They are replacing it with an individualistic aesthetic that celebrates their heritage, their unique features and flaws and, most of all, their vision of Indian-ness.
A year ago, Sonali Singh had her life together. She wanted to be a model for ages even though her traditional family didn't support her dream. “No one ever told me I was beautiful. I was too short, too thin, too dusky. I just believed in myself.” It paid off—she got scouted in a mall, was signed to an agency, and things were looking up. Then came the crash.
A car accident left her with a deep scar on her forehead, and for a while she thought her modelling dream was over. “I didn't think people would accept me with the scar,” she says. She concealed the scar with makeup as best as she could and started going to auditions. Trying out for TV commercials and brand shoots, she lost jobs that needed bland, conventional faces. But for some sections of the fashion industry, her scar gave her face character and set her apart. A successful Sabyasachi campaign later, Singh is adding acting and dancing skills to her portfolio with eyes on Bollywood. She's coming soon to a big screen near you.
The Dweltz twins, with their natural red hair, fair skin and striking features, were used to playing games of genetic 20 Questions with most people they encountered: Had their hair been dyed? Were they adopted? Were their parents foreigners? No to all of those, for the record. The twins do have some European heritage high up in their family tree, but they're as Indian as they come. “Growing up in Indian society with different features has been a constant effort to blend in,” says Deveney. As children, their idea of beauty was shaped by what society considered attractive, and those freckles were not exactly their favourite feature. Today, their perceptions have evolved, and they've grown to accept and love themselves, freckles and all. “A beautiful face, skinny body and fair skin is not everything. Love yourself, accept your body and make yourself happy,” says Deveney. Few can fault this wisdom from a 19-year-old.
Renee Kujur could chart her professional life on a timeline with two distinct periods: BR and AR. During BR, or Before Rihanna, Kujur was an aspiring model who started working after school to earn money for a portfolio. She did some shoots, but her dark skin didn't exactly endear her to colour-conscious photographers. When a friend noticed her resemblance to pop icon Rihanna, Kujur's luck began to change. That's when her After Rihanna phase started and she began booking jobs for her natural beauty. It's surprising Kujur's glowing skin, liquid eyes and full lips needed a superstar doppelgänger to gain approval, but the model is wholeheartedly embracing this opportunity to further her career. “I was made to feel that my colour and my features were my weakness but I made them my strength. Don't hate what [you're born with].”
Toshada Uma grew up with a precocious streak: despite being teased for her petite size and crooked teeth, she anchored events and walked the ramp as a child artist. It was only when she started developing alopecia—a condition that creates bald spots on the head and body—that her confidence wavered a bit. Her 4ft8in frame holds a quiet self-assurance and she realised early on that she wasn't ugly, just different. “I've always considered myself beautiful,” she says. Uma first tried to grow out her hair to conceal the hairless patches, but later, in a gesture of acceptance, she made the decision to go bald. “I think short hair suits me better. I'm glad I don't feel pressured into growing it anymore.”
The blogger and model is today a sensation for fans of alternative fashion—she's known for her experimental dressing and her fearless hair and makeup choices, especially her use of wigs. Uma is one of the forces taking the Indian fashion conversation beyond the mainstream.
Photographed by Vikas Vasudev. Beauty direction by Nidhi Sharma Punjabi. Styled by Priyanka Parkash. Hair: Kanta Motwani/Kromakay; Hair assistant: Ruchi Thakur; Makeup: Tanvi Chemburkar. Production: Shweta Chaudhri
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