Beer Man: Sam Adams Utopias are back (and glorious), but the $199 price tag is steep

Samuel Adams Utopias 2017
Boston Beer Co., Boston
www.samueladams.com
28 percent ABV

The wonder that is Samuel Adams’ Utopias has just made its biennial appearance.

As I do every time I write about it, it must be reiterated that it is not beer as you know it. Aged in different liquor and wine casks, being 56 proof and having no head or carbonation, it really is more like a liqueur such as Benedictine, Grand Marnier or Drambuie.

The main question I’m asked about Utopias is whether it is really worth $199 for a 750ml bottle?

I would have to say yes. You are not just paying for a bottle of beer when you buy Utopias — you are paying for at least a couple of decades of aging in various casks, in a way that no one in the world is doing. The price is in line with many 20- to 30-year-old single-malt Scotch whiskeys.

What you get with Utopias is a beer that has been aged, for various times, in sherry, port, bourbon, white Carcavelos wine and, in the case of the 2017 edition, additional aging in Aquavit and Muscat casks. There is also some use of maple syrup.

The base beer is made of 24-year-old Triple Bock and 17-year-old Millennium, as well as previous Utopias vintages. Several yeast strains are used, with the main one a secret strain that can withstand the high alcohol content without dying off. Champagne yeast and wild yeast are also used, with the latter providing a bit of tartness, but not sourness.

Giving my tasting glass a swirl resulted in a thick line appearing with oily, viscous drops slowly oozing their way down the sides of the glass. The first aromas were of caramel malt, molasses, grape and sherry.

The first sip was slightly alcohol hot and spicy, with the malt, grape and sherry dominating. I also got hints of cherry, vanilla, rum and port. The mouthfeel, like most liqueurs, was not thick and syrupy, but a light, slightly oily sensation.

It seemed the Muscat barrel aging provided a pleasant grapey tartness that was a good counterpart to the sweeter aspects of the main flavors, and was the main character in the finish. 

There is no reason to chill Utopias — like a liqueur, it drinks just fine at room temperature.

Utopias is extremely limited, so if you are on the hunt, it’s best to do it soon. This is not a beer that will still be on the shelves months from now. Samuel Adams has a Beer Finder link at samueladams.com/find-a-sam.

Beer Man sez: If you can afford it, the 2017 edition of Samuel Adams’ Utopias is worth its hefty price. There is nothing like it in the world.