The genus cyclamen is a member of the primrose family with an estimated 20 species, but it is the florists’ potted indoor cyclamen, often called Christmas cyclamen, that is perhaps most familiar to gardeners and most commonly available in nurseries. It starts blooming in the fall and continues on until early spring, peaking during the holiday season.
Native to countries around the Mediterranean, cyclamens are tuberous perennials with white, red, lavender, pink or rose-colored blooms held high on individual stems above heart-shaped leaves mottled with silver or light green. Blooms face downward but the petals face upward, giving the delightful effect of butterflies hovering over the plant.
The florists’ cyclamen has been bred from Cyclamen persicum and includes both large-flowered plants and miniatures, whose flowers are about half the size of the larger variety. Usually, one result of the breeding is the loss of fragrance that the original species had. Though florists’ cyclamen can serve as an indoor bedding plant under favorable conditions, other cyclamen species such as hederifolium, purpurascens, coum and repandum are heartier and will survive and bloom better outdoors. Their flowers, however, will not be as large.
Cultivation of cyclamens requires a degree of care and diligence. A key factor is temperature, since they will not do well unless they have cool conditions. Ideal temperatures are 55-65 F, though temperatures as low as 40 F can be tolerated. Cyclamens can withstand some warm temperatures during the daytime providing nighttime temperatures stay below 55.
High humidity is another important need of cyclamens. Cyclamens grown indoors should be placed on top of a pebble-filled shallow tray or dish with water to maintain humidity. The pot should rest on the pebbles, not in the water.
Cyclamens prefer moist soil and should not be allowed to dry out. Care must be taken to avoid creating soggy soil conditions, however, since excessive moisture will cause the tuber to rot. Do not water the crown.
Florists’ cyclamens prefer bright indirect light like that provided by an east-facing window. Most outdoor ones do best in light shade conditions. Cyclamens should be fed twice a month with a complete fertilizer during the flowering period.
All cyclamens go through a summer dormant period. For florists’ cyclamens, one option is simply to place the plants outdoors after the bloom has stopped and the leaves have yellowed. They should be fed and watered regularly, then brought in at the beginning of fall, when they can usually be expected to form new leaves and flower buds. The other option is to stop watering, remove the tuber after the leaves have died, and store it in a cool place in a holding medium like peat moss until late summer, when it can be repotted. Cyclamens grow best in rich well-drained soil with plenty of humus.
Diseases and pests actually are not too much of an issue with cyclamens. Other than the rot caused by excessive moisture, the only other environmental problems come about when the temperature gets too warm, which causes leaves to turn yellow or brown, stems to soften and flowering to cease. The main pest is the microscopic cyclamen mite, whose damage — distorted leaves and flower buds that drop or fail to open — has usually been done before it is detected. It is often best simply to discard the plant at that juncture, but by spraying it with insecticidal soap, you might be able to achieve control of the problem.
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