Everything You Need to Know About Facial Acupuncture

As the beauty world becomes more immersed in all-natural, holistic solutions, it's only fitting that the age-old practice of facial acupuncture (yes, for the face!) becomes a mainstay treatment. Gua sha may have started the Traditional Chinese Medicine-beautifying craze, but facial acupuncture is setting it in stone.

Traditional acupuncture treats several health issues, ranging from chronic pain to allergies. But when using acupuncture on the face, the benefits are different. According to Elizabeth Trattner, facial acupuncture (also known as cosmetic acupuncture) improves the health and appearance of the skin on the face, neck, and chest.

"Facial acupuncture aims to balance the body's energy, or Qi, which can positively affect various health issues such as digestive problems, hormonal imbalances, and sleep disorders, enhance beauty, and promote wellness," she says. Here's everything you need to know about facial acupuncture before settling on the treatment.

What Is Facial Acupuncture?

Facial acupuncture is a skin treatment that involves inserting tiny sterile needles into specific parts of the face to improve blood flow and circulation. Sandra Chiu shares that facial cosmetic acupuncture can treat fine lines and wrinkles, jowl sagging and a heavy lower face, a dull complexion, volume loss, dark under-eye circles, and puffiness.

One important point of difference: It is strictly for cosmetic benefits, whereas traditional acupuncture elsewhere can improve general health or symptoms of a specific medical condition. 

What Happens During a Facial Acupuncture Treatment

While the facial acupuncture steps can vary among acupuncturists, Chiu starts by examining the tongue, pulse, and symptomatology for treatment before performing acupuncture first on the body to balance and improve its overall health.

"Then, we perform acupuncture to the face, head and neck according to the patient's chief cosmetic concerns," she says. 20 to 50 tiny disposable needles are inserted to correlate to underlying imbalances causing specific skin- or age-related issues. The needles help balance out the body's Qi, or energy source, for improved skin health by promoting circulation, energy flow, and collagen and elastin production.

After placing the needles a few millimeters deep within the skin — Chiu adds they are inserted very superficially around the eyes and forehead, and deeper in the jaw area — they'll stay there for up to 30 minutes while you lay still (a session lasts about an hour since facial cleansing is done first, sometimes followed by gua sha or cupping). Trattner says other treatments, like facial massage, light therapy, or microcurrent stimulation, can further enhance the treatment's effects.

The Benefits of Facial Acupuncture

One of the most significant benefits of facial acupuncture is improved blood flow to the tissues and skin, which can change the appearance of the skin — sometimes immediately. "There's also a softening or ‘reset’ of the tissue subject to muscle overuse and tension over time,” Chiu says. “When the fascia and facial muscles are relaxed, the skin and tissues are better nourished and healthier, improving the skin's appearance and face shape."

Plus, facial acupuncture can minimize the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines by increasing collagen and elastin production via microtraumas made with needles. "The needles help tone and tighten the facial muscles to improve facial contouring and lift sagging skin," Trattner says. There's also an increase in blood circulation to oxygenate the skin, giving it a radiant glow.

Lastly, repeat facial acupuncture treatments can aid in lymphatic drainage to eliminate congestion, toxin buildup and excess fluid to reduce puffiness and under-eye circles and improve skin clarity and breakouts. (However, while the needles can clear excess heat or inflammation in the face and enhance blood flow to help clear up acne, the practice does not unclog pores like standard extractions, Chiu says.)

Who Should Try Facial Acupuncture?

Anyone who is game for a holistic skin refresh may want to give facial acupuncture a try. For instance, it’s a good option for those looking for a natural alternative to medical anti-aging treatments. "It's also great for someone who doesn't like the look of fillers or Botox and doesn't want as drastic of a result," Chiu says.

Facial acupuncture produces a natural yet balanced youthful appearance because nothing is injected into the face. However, if you have a blood clotting disorder, history of epilepsy, are pregnant, or take blood thinners, you should avoid the treatment.

Are the Results the Same as Botox?

The wrinkle-smoothing effects of Botox and facial acupuncture aren't a mirror image of one another. "I understand why people want to compare facial cosmetic acupuncture to Botox, but they are apples and oranges," Chiu says. "Unlike Botox, facial cosmetic acupuncture improves the health and vitality of the skin and underlying tissues, deeply relaxes the nervous system to impact daily life, and improves the quality and function of internal organ systems."

Plus, while Botox consists of one treatment every three months or so, cosmetic acupuncture requires more regularity. And the two treatments also work differently. Botox relies on toxins to halt muscle communication for a wrinkle-freezing effect; acupuncture increases circulation and moves energy.

How Often Should You Do It?

To reap the benefits of facial acupuncture, you must commit to multiple sessions, usually six to 12, over time. Iindividual experiences may vary depending on the frequency of visits, age, and prior health of the skin before treatment. "Results are usually after six sessions, and it is important to maintain the results, which can last years, with monthly visits or whatever your practitioner suggests," Trattner says.